Bottom Paint

1. Notes – 01/20/2014:
   1. Since the last haul-out 2 years ago, the boat had been at a slip in Keehi Marina in Hawaii, sailing from a few days per week to a few days per month.
   2. The bottom was covered in dime sized blisters during haul-out. They did not change size or shrink while hauled out. Most of them could be cracked with a fingernail and a drop of water would drip out. I didn’t have time to repair any of them, so I just painted over them. There was one area of old repair that was delaminating on the port side where the keel meets the hull. I repaired this area by chipping the old paint off then orbital sanding with 80 grit, Acetone, then 2 layers of Epoxy. I painted 2 layers of bottom paint over the repair without fairing the area.
   3. Old bottom paint from previous owner was red Trinidad SR.
2. Notes – 03/10/2016:
   1. The old bottom paint in 2014 was Black CPA Gold over Red Trinidad.
   2. The new paint in 2016 was Blue CPA Gold.
   3. Since the last haul-out 2 years and 2 months ago, the boat spent most of its time at a slip in Keehi Lagoon, sailing two times per week for two months, then not sailing at all for two months.
   4. The boat bottom was professionally cleaned every two months by Island Boat Bottoms.
   5. Before haul-out, some of the underlying red paint was starting to show through at the waterline and the down the rudder. The bottom would be quite hairy after two months of sitting, but no hard barnacles, so the paint was still working, just not as well as after the new application. If I didn’t need to haul out to repair the keel from the reef hit I could have waiting another 6 months or so for new paint.
   6. The dime sized blisters showed no change after just painting over them last time. During this 2016 haulout, though, I filled, epoxied, sanded and painted over most of them. The old delaminating patch repair from last haulout held up perfectly. The rudder had about six areas where the oldest layer of paint was delaminating and leaking watery acid from the fiberglass. This 2016 haulout I ground them all out, patched, sanded and painted over.
   7. This haulout was much more expensive than last time. KYC’s 2014 haulout fee was $400 for two weeks for a total bottom paint expense of $1400. Keehi Marine Center’s 2016 fee was $943 for 5 days totaling $1900.
3. Supplies:
   1. Paint choices for the hull:
      1. West Marine CPP – Applies over existing ablative paint. Blue. Good if left in water, bad if exposed to air. Good in tropics for 2-3 years. $140/gal.
      2. Micron Extra – Versatile, doesn’t have issues with air exposure. Contains biocide to repel slime. Requires movement to work at it’s best (not chemically ablative). Do not paint Micron Extra over Micron 33 or 44. $250/gal.
      3. West Marine PCA Gold/Ultima SR 40 – Better for slower boat speeds. Works from 3-5 knots rather than the 7 knots required with other brands. Forums like it. $193/gal.
4. Shopping list and costs ($1269 for all supplies, tools, and paint):
   1. $100 – Hire a bottom cleaner to wet-sand the bottom.
   2. $400 – Crane operator. Co-op haul-out at Kaneohe Yacht Club for 2 weeks or 4 weeks.
   3. $400 – (2 gal) Black West PCA Gold Bottom Paint – West Marine
   4. $29 – (2) Zinc anodes (1 1/4″) for prop shaft – West Marine
   5. $4 – Roll of sheet towels – O-Reilly Autoparts
   6. $3 – (2) Plastic epoxy spreaders – Hardware Hawaii
   7. $7 – (2) Safety goggles – Hardware Hawaii
   8. $11 – 5 pack dust masks – Hardware Hawaii
   9. $12 – (2) 3m Blue Masking Tape – Hardware Hawaii
   10. $9 – Hand Cleaner – Hardware Hawaii
   11. $57 – New DeWalt D26453K Orbital Sander – eBay
   12. $13 – (25) 80 grit orbital sandpaper – Hardware Hawaii
   13. $8 – (2) Power drill drive paint mixers
   14. $8 – (1 qt) Acetone – Hardware Hawaii
   15. $6 – Metal roller trays – Hardware Hawaii
   16. $4 – (4) Paint roller tray liners
   17. $14 – (4) 9” 3/16” nap roller covers – Hardware Hawaii
   18. $27 – (1 qt) Epoxy Resin – Ace Hardware
   19. $5 – Epoxy Hardener – Hardware Hawaii
   20. $35 – 50’ Extension cord – Hardware Hawaii
   21. $14 – Power cord splitter – Ace Hardware
   22. $50 – Wet/Dry Vacuum – Craigslist
   23. $33 – Vacuum hose extension – Hardware Hawaii
   24. Borrow – Scaffolding
   25. $20 – Respirator – Ebay
   26. Borrow – Hanging cloth to tent dust in
   27. $0 – (10) Mixing sticks (chopsticks)
5. Process (assuming West PCA Gold):
   1. Clean hull in water the day before the haul-out.
      1. Hire Wayne ($100) and watch the process for next time. Note tools required.
      2. He wet-sanded the entire hull while underwater.
   2. Kaneohe Yacht Club hired a crane operator to haul out 6 boats at a time.
      1. Each boat owner paid $400 for the haul-out and haul-in for either 2 weeks or 4 weeks, depending on space. I completed the top and bottom paint in 2 weeks.
   3. Immediately after haul-out, use a pressure washer to wash the hull while wet and finish cleaning. I just used a spray nozzle and hose since the hull was so clean.
   4. After drying, tape off the areas not to be touched with the sander with blue masking tape. The tape acts as a cue you are getting too close. Ideally, the bottom paint will come as high as 6” over the waterline, then the boot stripe using top-paint.
   5. Lay sheets of canvas under the boat to collect debris and drips.
   6. Prep the bottom with 80 grit hook and loop sand-paper if the paint is beat or 120 grit if in better shape (I used 120) and a random orbital sander (Dewalt 6″ D26453K or Ridgid R2601. Ridgid works faster but was harder to prevent digging small arcs in the paint when first touching the sandpaper to the surface of the boat – Never use a disc sander!). Most harbors (including KYC) require a shop-vac attachment. Use a rubber sanding block with sheets of sandpaper in tight areas or areas that would be misshapen by the orbital sander. Don’t forget the respirator (3M 27531037)and goggles, plus some extra dust masks for helpers.
   7. Before painting, repair any damage. (See the ‘Repair Hull Damage’ document.)
      1. This will usually include using micro-balloons and Epoxy resin with a plastic spreader.
   8. Ensure under layer of paint is in good condition.
      1. If chipping or soft, or if tin copolymer paint was used must remove all the paint and start from bare gelcoat, which is a whole other process.
   9. Dampen any dusty areas to prevent it from kicking up into the fresh paint.
   10. After mixing the paint per the instructions (I didn’t mix in any reducer) apply 2 finishing coats of Ultima SR 40 (2 gallons), plus an extra layer on the rudder, leading edges, and waterline (1 qt).
       1. Pour enough paint for 20 minutes of painting, re-seal the bucket, and repeat. This keeps the paint thin using a minimum amount of thinner, or none at all.
       2. Choose a different color than the previous paint so thin spots can be easily noticed in the future.
       3. Use foam brushes for tighter spots and along sharp lines.
       4. Roll paint on using vertical strokes with a short nap 3/16” maximum roller cover, roller, tray, and liner.
       5. Have a second person follow immediately behind the roller with a foam brush to “tip” the paint horizontally. (I didn’t do this since the bottom was so rough anyway.)
       6. Wait 6 hours between coats in 70 degree weather. (I waited overnight.)
       7. Wet sanding between coats is not required with ablative paint.
       8. After drying for a day, move the boat supports, cover them with plastic bags, and paint the squares.
       9. When the crane lifts the boat to put it back in the water, pause long enough to paint the spots where the blocks were. It’s fine to just slop it on and drop the boat immediately into the water.
   11. For the prop and any underwater stainless steel or bronze:
       1. Abrade surface to bright metal by hand sanding or using a drill polisher. Apply one thin coat of 6455/044 Metal Primer; allow to dry six hours. Apply one coat of 4700/4701 High Build Epoxy Primer then, if fairing is required, apply 7050 EZ Fair Epoxy Fairing Compound. Follow with an additional coat of 4700/4701 High Build Epoxy Primer per label directions. Apply two or three finish coats of Ultima SR-40.
       2. Ultima SR-40 cannot be applied directly to metal, hence the required primers.
       3. I didn’t have time to polish or paint the prop so the bare metal is in the salt water.