Replace Fuel Filters

1/21/13, 6/10/14: Completed all tasks.

  1. Clean RACOR Fuel Filter (500FG Series) and replace its filter element.
    1. Slack the retaining nut to release clamp and remove the primary filter assembly with crescent wrench.
    2. Remove Vacuum Gauge with Crescent Wrench
    3. Remove Racor Parker 2 micron fabric filter, pulling from the plastic lift pullers.
    4. Remove 4 retaining nuts and drop the glass bowl (1/4 wratchet) using a small plastic bucket below in case of spillage.
    5. Disassemble and clean the bowl and fittings with flathead screwdriver and shop rags.
    6. Reassemble the glass bowl and attach with the 4 nuts, reusing the original orange gasket.
      1. Note: 1/20/13, gasket was in like new condition.
    7. Insert new 2 micron filter (Parker Kit Number 15432 or WIX 33796), the small orange gasket and the large black gasket included in the kit. Use diesel fuel to lubricate the gaskets.
    8. Reattach the unit.
    9. Fill with clean diesel.
    10. Install the gauge temporarily while we change the engine fuel filter.
    11. Lift the rubber stopper with your fingernails to relieve pressure on the gauge and center the indication back to zero.
  2. Replace the engine fuel filter.
    1. Slacken the set screw in the center of the engine’s securing fitting per the engine manual (7/16th open crescent wrench).
    2. Slide a plastic bag under and around the filter to catch about a cup of fuel while loosening the filter.
    3. Have a small bucket available to drop the fuel-laden plastic bag in, and place a spill rag to soak up the few drops after removing the filter.
    4. Let gravity drop the filter and bottom fitting into the plastic bag with the fuel and wait until the fuel stops dripping.
    5. Place the bag in the bucket, clean the bottom fitting and place it aside.
    6. Take the new filter (FRAM C1191A or Napa 3166 or WIX 33166), lube the new gasket with fuel and reassemble. Tighten 1 quarter turn after initial contact of the gasket against the metal (finger tight).
    7. Tighten locking nut finger tight.
  3. Prime the system and run the engine:
    1. There should be no need to bleed the entire system after a filter change. Follow these steps to prevent having to complete a full engine bleed.
    2. Remove the primary filter’s gauge, fill with clean diesel, and replace gauge.
    3. Pump the mechanical lift pump by hand until the secondary (engine) filter is full.
      1. There is no way to see the level of fuel in the filter.
      2. Around 50 pumps should do it.
      3. If there is a little air in the filter, it should be no problem. The air will follow the return line back to the fuel tank. If the shaking engine jiggles a couple bubbles into the line to the injector pump, the engine should work through it and run smoothly within a few seconds.
    4. Crank the engine (Never longer than 15 seconds!)
  4. If the engine won’t start within 15 seconds, there is a problem; Most likely air in the system.
    1. A full engine bleed is required. It’s not hard, just a little more time consuming.
    2. See “Bleeding the Bleedin’ Perkins.”

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